After initially scoffing at my gym’s (Eurosport) absurdly named “Zone Relax,” and not even bothering to visit it for my first several months, I’ve become quite the addict. They have a Finnish sauna, a Russian sauna (which smells like burnt wood), a Roman steam room, a freezing cold pool, and a jacuzzi which isn’t hot but gives a great massage.

The gym is full of expensive-looking women and important-looking men. Many speak Russian which is not typical in L’viv, though certainly not unknown especially for business men.

So today, two guys started talking to me in Russian in the sauna. They were intrigued that I spoke Ukrainian, but wasn’t born here. I told them about my work and some entrepreneurial ideas I may pursue on a future visit.

One spoke about the unfairness of cheap labor and the other, the older, more important-looking one, lectured him about why this isn’t so.

I was so interested in their conversation that I stayed in the sauna until I felt dizzy and light headed. I excused myself, stumbled to the frozen pool for a dip. Then I returned for more.