Author Archives: RomanInUkraine

Public Transportation Bluster in L’viv

Email from my friend Andri this past Sunday:

Today we have an conflict situation in Lviv: owners of carrier-companies require from the city-administration to rise the price from 2 hryvnias to 3. Otherwise they will stop working on 20:30 every day. The city-mayor aswered: this is intimidation, your requirement can’t be satisfied till you won’t buy more comfortable buses. Carriers promise to start strike on Monday :) Some other details about the situation – owner of the biggest carrier-firm is a deputy from Svoboda. We have three private firms but I don’t know if they are subsidised from city or state budget. Private owners shares the carrier-market of city with one municipal firm which started using big second-hand buses from Europe. Major demands from the private carriers to drive the same class buses.

A member of my English club wrote this essay several months ago about public transportation in Lviv:

The case against nationalized urban transport

***

As far as I can tell, no actual strike took place. Several people told me before the supposed deadline (Monday), that it wouldn’t happen. It was just the necessary bluster which the voting public must hear before a last minute solution by hard-working and concerned politicians was found.

Goodbye Dragon

The last year of the dragon, 2000, I finished my computer science degree at Stanford University, commissioned as an infantry officer, completed IOBC, wrecked my knee at Ranger School, made a miraculous recovery, and started Ranger School again in the dead of winter.

This year of the dragon, I decided to move to Ukraine and start a variety of little projects. So far so good. :)

This past weekend, the year of the dragon ended and the year of the snake began. There were festivities in L’viv, the third and final New Year celebration of the season and regular New Year and the Old New Year on January 13th.

Shopping for hangars

Shopping is an amazingly complex and subtle activity. One of the (many) things which makes Amazon.com fantastic is that they’ve exhaustively imagined the activity and designed their arrays of services accordingly.

Recognizing the complexity of the activity makes me feel better about having such a hard time. I ask for advice.

With the hangers, I had to draw a picture, because my friend thought I wanted some sort of stand with hooks on it. Anyway, the store she directed me to didn’t have them. I made a half dozen stops at different stores before finding one that sold hangars.

The plastic ones were 2 uah each — 25 cents. That’s when things got weird:

“Are they for you or for a girl?” the sales lady asked.

“Hangars?” I replied, surprised.

“You can buy a bunch and give them as a gift.”

I really doubt Ukrainian girls wouldn’t be offended by such a gift. She was talking nonsense.

Amazingly, as I continued home, hangars in hand, a lady stopped me in the street.

“Where did you get those hangars?” she said.

What a weird day…

Ternopil’s Museum of Repression

The Museum of Repression in Ternopil, Ukraine is a monument to a catastrophic history too often forgotten and ignored. The museum is a converted jail. People were tortured and executed there. For many, it was their first stop en route concentration camps in Siberia.

This was the case for the now-82-year-old director, Ihor Oleshchuk, who provides a personal tour. He was sentenced to 25 years, but returned after eight under Krushchev’s general amnesty. The cell in which he was held is now a chapel.

Some documentarians needs to go there and film his tour, then let him speak to the camera for several hours.

Ternopil Museum of Repression

Ternopil Museum of Repression

The museum includes models of actual hideouts used by the Ukrainian Partisan’s during WWII.

Ternopil Museum of Repression

Roman Shukhevych spent the winter of ’44-’45 at this hideout:
Ternopil Museum of Repression

The proud, resilient museum director:

Ternopil Museum of Repression

The museum director in Siberia:

Ternopil Museum of Repression

Made in the Gulag — handkerchiefs depicting angels, and a bread-and-dirt rosary which, amazingly, has survived 60+ years.

Ternopil Museum of Repression

If I understood correctly, this is a stained glass mosaic artists executed in the 1960s after she began adopting nationalistic themes:

Ternopil Museum of Repression

She was one of many executed cultural figures:

Ternopil Museum of Repression

The museum director’s former cell is now a chapel.

Ternopil Museum of Repression

Visiting the museum was a very moving experience. The director’s first hand accounts and breadth of knowledge and passion contributed greatly to the experience. I really wish someone would film this place, as the director, though seemingly in excellent health, is over eighty years old.

The only thing I didn’t like was one room toward the end devoted a little too strongly to idolizing Stephan Bandera. The room was pretty much an altar. Too much for any mortal.

Culture of Failure

In the US, people flaunt their poverty (real or fake) to show kinship with the common man. This began as a revolution from European aristocracy, but it has melded with a general scorn for the imaginary group: “the 1%.” The absurdity and inaccuracy of the term matters little. The masses need a simple, understandable enemy for their fear to coalesce into action. To be rich and successful is to be suspect.

In Ukraine, people flaunt their wealth (real or fake). They’ve had enough equality under the Soviet Union. It is cool to rise above the masses. I love it here. I feel like I’m supposed to do great things. I’m trying.

My Post Office Experience

My landlord slipped a note under my door. It came from the Post Office. I had received a package. I had been expecting one — a French Press — a personal gift from a dear friend in Prague.

I carried the note to the main post office where they told me to go to my local post office, number 18 or something.

The next day, I walked to a post office near my apartment. They directed me to yet another one near the bazaar. At that post office, they told me packages are handled in the adjacent building, but they only worked until three pm. It was almost four.

I left and made a mental note of the adjacent door, which had no sign or distinguishing markings. It did not seem like a post office, but it was the only thing even remotely matching the clerk’s directions. I returned the next day.

The door opened into a small chamber which could have been foyer or waiting room. There was a table with one tall stack of papers leaning heavily against the adjacent cabinet.

One of two chairs was occupied by a middle-aged woman who ignored me. I sensed her fanatical indifference to the world. She seemed capable of ignoring a locomotive, should one ever come crashing through the wall of that chamber. If indifference was a religion, she’d be a high priest.

I felt very much the outsider in a world loathe to acknowledge me. Perhaps it was my own insecurity, but I felt like Alice who initially struggled for the attention of Wonderland’s denizens. They ignored her as another uninteresting fixture.

“Is this the post office?” I asked, breaking the silence. I had the suspicion the lady would look right through me without seeing me. For some reason, I felt started by the fact of her reaction.

She said nothing, but waved her hand to a door opposite the entrance. I tested it. Its bolting mechanism was sufficiently ill fit that the door gave a centimeter or so before the bolt banged against the latch hole.

Immediately, I felt guilty of something, though I wasn’t sure what. The noise of the deadbolt had echoed in the chamber announcing my effort. Perhaps the noise condemned me as a sinner in this wonderland, guilty of desiring some outcome and working purposefully toward it.

The lady’s indifference remained. One might think of a Buddhist monk, but without any hope of reaching of Nirvana. Hers was a more perfect harmony, without hope and without fear. If you ever find yourself by the bazaar, please find this door and peak inside. I suspect she’ll still be there.

It occurred to me that I might not have sufficiently twisted the doorknob. Surely, anyone inside in the room would have heard the clatter. Should I test the door again?

I waited, hoping for some sign of sentient existence beyond the portal. Nothing.

I grabbed the door knob again, with both hands this time, twisted with all my strength. I clearly heard a latch-bolt retract, but when I pulled the door, again, what must have been a deadbolt pounded loudly against the latch hole.

I felt glad for my second try. Though it didn’t represent progress toward to my goal, I helped me understand the situation. I felt confidence of two things:

1) The door was indeed locked.

2) The second chamber was almost certainly uninhabited, because any occupant would certainly have reacted to my noisy appeal.

Though the outcome was unfavorable, I the issue’s resolution filled me with an albeit miniscule sense of accomplishment. I had tried exhaustively, but failed. Now it was time to move on. Perhaps this wasn’t the adjacent building they’d told me of. I would ask a local friend for help. Now it was time to move onto the next task.

Perhaps the pleasant thought of leaving wonderland, of returning to civilization is what inspired a playful feeling in me. I flippantly rapped the door with my knuckles before turning contently. I walked half way across the room before the sound of an opening deadbolt froze me in place.

I felt the hairs standing up on the back of my neck. Did I really hear it? Surely, a human would not have waited for me to knock. Surely, a human would have understood the meaning of clattering deadbolt in a public building during business hours. I turned slowly to the door, bracing for whatever demon or alien life form might hurl itself toward me.

I felt my heart pounding. Looking at the door, I adjusted my stance, braced to move quickly, to dodge or to flee. Nothing. There was only silence. The door did not budge. Only it’s deadbolt had been pushed open by someone, or someTHING. Was this an invitation? Was it a dare?

The woman did not return my gaze. I felt lost. I did not know the rules of this world and reminded myself that I had once been a paratrooper, that I was a three time combat veteran, a warrior and leader of men.

I turned the knob and the door opened with a squeak. An office. Definitely an office. Perhaps a Post Office. Two desks. A woman at one of them. She doesn’t notice me.

I had reassured soldiers en route to Afghanistan that things are much less scary up close. This certainly seemed to be the case here. I closed the door noisily. There was nothing to fear, but much to puzzle over.

I surveyed the room. The strongest hint of a postal vocation was the cubby shelving on the wall. Other than that, it could have been any sort of office: Cabinets, two chaotic desks, one with an old Cathode Ray Tube monitor atop it. There was no sign of a computer. The strangest thing seemed to be the woman scribbling busily at one of the desks and not acknowledging me whatsoever.

I imagined her ignoring the pounding of the deadbolt. I imagined her, annoyed by my interruption, eventually rising from her desk, slamming open the bolt and returning to her place. I stood in utter awe of her capacity to ignore me, and didn’t even think to say anything until she finally looked up from her work and said something so quickly that I understood nothing beyond the irritated tone of her voice.

I did not react to her impatience, though, as my sensibilities had not yet adjusted to this strange world. I would have felt no less baffled had I discovered a troop of Kozaks sipping coffee in my kitchen one morning, their horses drinking from my toilet.

She spoke again, pointing the scrap of paper which I had forgotten I was holding, the paper my landlord slipped under my door. For the first time since entering her office, I felt I was interacting with a human.

My wonderment ended, and I stepped toward her, offering the paper. She responded angrily, indicating that she did not want the paper handed to her, but placed on the desk. Clearly, these were self-evident rules in this wonderland, and I, very much the clumsy, bothersome tourist. I placed it on the desk, and she immediately snatched it up.

With surprising animation, she shuffled through some papers and boxes in one part of the room, then in another. She found my package, much to my delight, then placed in on the table and asked to see my passport. I signed two or three slips of paper, and she returned to her previous posture, huddled over her desk, scribbling.

“Is that it?” I asked.

“Yes, yes,” she said impatiently. “That’s it.”

“Thank you,” I said.

It seemed she no longer heard me, or saw me, but I was happy. I left, gently shutting the door behind me. The woman in the first room also seemed oblivious to my passing.

Things Ukrainians Say

1)

I think it’s a testimony to the power of Soviet propaganda that I, upon revealing myself as an American, am still occasionally greeted with the joking inquiry:

“Are you a spy?”

The greater the tyranny, the more deeply the perception of enemies must be entrenched in the minds of the masses.

***

2)

Despite the fact that McDonald’s seems to be thriving, most Ukrainians seem outright paranoid about chemicals in their food.

Recently, a potential landlord assured me that his lease agreement was standard and honest.

“No chemicals in here,” he insisted. (Тут ніякої хімії нема.)

Very cute. :)

Vasyl Stus — calling for his own destruction . . . and getting it

Vasyl Stus “Соціалізм — це найчесніший людський лад. І він мусить виростати на чистій, на природній людській основі чесності, справедливості і взаємодопомоги людей, а не підтримуватись зграєю платних шпигунів, поліцейських, донощиків, кар’єристів, чиє ім’я — людська безликість. І за такий соціалізм варто боротися до скону.”

Translation (Google): Socialism – is the most honest human system. And he must grow in clean, natural human based on honesty, fairness and mutual people and not supported bunch of paid spies, police, informers, careerists, whose name – human impersonality. And for such a socialism worth fighting to end of life.

***

Wikipedia:

(Ukrainian: Васи́ль Семе́нович Стус; January 8, 1938 – September 4, 1985) was a Ukrainian poet and publicist, one of the most active members of Ukrainian dissident movement. For his political convictions, his works were banned by the Soviet regime and he spent 23 years (about a half of his life) in detention. On November 26, 2005 he was posthumously given the title Hero of Ukraine by order of the state.

. . . .

Vasyl Stus died after he declared hunger strike on September 4, 1985 in a Soviet forced labor camp for political prisoners Perm-36 near the village of Kuchino, Perm Oblast, Russian SFSR, where he had been transferred in November 1980. Danylo Shumuk reported that the commandant, a certain Maj. Zhuravkov, committed suicide after the death of Vasyl Stus.[5] In the Kuchino camp, out of 56 inmates kept there between 1980 and 1987, 8 died, including 4 members of the Ukrainian Helsinki Group.

Legacy

In 1985, an international committee of scholars, writers, and poets nominated Stus as a candidate for the 1986 Nobel Prize in Literature, but he died before the nomination materialized.[8] He was nominated by a German writer Heinrich Böll, who publicly stated that he expected Stus to win the prestigious prize.

***

The tradition of Ukrainian patriots feverishly advocating their own destruction remains alive and well.